My google-fu is telling me that the only way to reset that is to bring it in to a dealership and pay them to make new keys/unlock the computer. Search terms, "resetting pt cruiser after keylock shutdown"
I did contact the Chrysler dealer here in Jackson and I'm looking at $110 to have them reset the computer. I'm also checking with the salvage yards around Jackson, Kalamazoo, Lansing, and Ypsilanti/Bellville for a salvage computer just in case.
Sounds like you need the brake lines bled... you can do it with a manual or an automatic bleeder if you have one, but most would need to go to a shop to get it done. if you either have a leak or rip in them, or you have debris in them, that can cause air bubbles, and that in turn can cause loss of power in one or more brakes, or can cause them to lock up.... long term damage can result in the calipers if nt corrected, depending on seriousness of it.
I found out that my car uses 9006xs and 9005xs headlight bulbs for the high and low beam and most of the parts stores only have the basic bulbs but I want something brighter especially if I have to drive to Brooklyn or Cement City when it's still dark. Should I get Xenon, HID, LED, or something like the Sylvania Silverstar?
I would think that you'd be fine with the silverstar ultras. It's what I'll be putting in my truck when I need to. Whichever you choose, be careful though. Even high up in my pickup the more blue-white the headlights are, the more retina searing they are to me when I encounter them driving around.
Xenons are going to be even harder on oncoming drivers than the ultra silverstar. LEDs, while nice, are likely to either need additional cooling or wiring. Many headlight circuits on newer vehicles sense the current to the bulbs and detect problems, so LED conversions need load ballasts to pull enough current to fool the computers. That load ballast needs to be cooled, either by screwing them to the frame/body if they're a separate style or with a fan if they're part of the light bulb assembly. To me, that's just more parts to fail and the fan mounted models aren't guaranteed to fit in the space between the headlight reflector and the back-plate to the mount areas. This of course is a model specific observation. They may have also improved them in the last couple years, but that was what I observed when I was looking into it then.
HIDs also need ballasts which means additional wiring, and also fall into that, "Holy shit it burns!" category.
I found out two weeks ago that when the wrong key was used in my car not only did it wipe the code in the SKIM Module but it also shut the computer down to where it couldn't be reset. I bought a computer that will be programmed to the VIN of my car and as soon as I get it I will have the dealership install it and try to reprogram the key and if they get it to run they will do a oil change and make sure the gaskets and rear main seal are not FUBAR.
tldr bought an old Supra. 1990 3.0 targa top
Body is straight and never been in an accident. All tbe panels on it are original.
Engine and drive line is strong. Had the engine rebuilt with ARP headstuds, metal headgasket, 57mm trim CT26 turbo, ported head with updated valve springs and retainers. The thing lays down a mad skid.
Needs paint work.
Power steering doesn't work right. Reservoir has fluid and everything. Might be the steering rack (makes noise when I go full lock)
Need interior work. (Dash is cracked like most of them are but i found a fairly new condition one. And the seats need a recover)
Speedo and boost don't work on the cluster. Either find a way to fix it or change it out with a spare cluster I got.
TEMS still works but KYB makes replacements for the adjustable struts.
Only rust is the battery tray area. Car had been sitting for a while and guess they left the battery in it and then leaked out. Going to have to fix that.