Official Computer Help Thread

[sith2886]

1)Wireless costs extra so I'm not using it
2) how do I do all of that/ look for that

Edit it's running at 10/100 mbps

 

[T.L]

*Scratches Head*
This is the DVW32CB modem right.
I'm not sure how using a wireless connection to the Gateway costs extra but anyway.

[1] In your instruction manual there should be a section that tells you how to access the menu of the router from your web page.
Some use the address of 192.169.0.1 or 10.0.0.1 under an address like this you can check the settings for the gateway/router.

[2] Your PC LAN connection speed is either 10Mbps 100Mbps or 1000Mbps you need to make sure that your router is running at the same speed as your PC

 

[sith2886]

Spectrum claims that if I use the wireless there's an extra fee, idk man anyway every time I try to access the menu (ironically) the internet cuts out or it times out. :head bashing intensifies:

 

[T.L]

Sounds like it is in bridge mode.

Please read this fully before trying.


Find the RESET hole on the back of the cable modem VoIP Gateway rear panel and use a paper clip, pen, pencil or similar tool to press the RESET button for over 15 seconds.
The UBEE EVW3226 modem will be revert back to its factory original settings.
Reset button can be also used to restart the modem or press over 15 seconds can default the modem.

To access the configuration page:
Type 192.168.0.1 in the browser's address bar to open the modem log in page. Note: If you are trying to access the modem via wifi connection, note that your wifi settings are also deleted so find the SSID and WPA2 password on the sticker on the modem and set up your wi-fi connection on your computer or tablet, mobile device.

Now that you are logged into your UBEE EVW3226 modem's configuration page, enter "admin" as the username and also "admin" as the password. Set up your modem as your need.

Please note:
In rare cases If both DS and US blue LEDs are flashing, it means the Wireless Voice Gateway is automatically updating its system software. Please wait for the lights to stop flashing. Do not remove the power supply or reset the Wireless Voice Gateway during this update process. The update process may take up to 5-10 minutes. Be patient!


If you can access the menu at any stage try this
How to reset UBEE EVW3226 from menu
1. Type 192.168.0.1 in the browser's address bar to open the modem log in page.
2. Enter "admin" as the username and also "admin" as the password.
3. Go to System tab.
4. In the left side menu select Factory Default
5. Click on Restore defaults button. ubee evw3226 factory reset menu3 Note: After you click the button, the modem will reset itself immediately.
6. Wait until the modem reset the system settings and reboots. It will take 2-3 minutes. After the LEDs are not flashing you can log in the configuration page and setup the modem.

Note:
If you have a backup of your configuration, you can restore it from the System tab / Backup and Recovery / Restore menu - browse the .cfg file and press the RESTORE button and click OK in the confirmation Warning dialog window.

 

[T.L]

From what I read the DVW32CB is pretty crappy
If your looking for your own modem The the Asus RTN66R is supposed to be pretty good.
Personally I only use Netgear stuff and never had an Issue.

But I'm glad I live here in .au, yeah our internet might be slow but compared to USA ISP and telco's, our service standards crap all over theirs.

 

[sith2886]

This mean anything to you?
Connection

> Status > Connection
[hr]


Startup Procedure
Procedure
Status
Comment
Acquire Downstream Channel
555000000 Hz
Locked
Connectivity State
OK
Operational
Boot State
 
 
Configuration File
OK

Security
Enabled
BPI+


Downstream Bonded Channels
Channel
Lock Status
Modulation
Channel ID
Frequency
Power
SNR
Correctables
Uncorrectables
1
 
QAM256
 
555000000 Hz
-3.2 dBmV
39.4 dB
6
0
2
 
QAM256
 
537000000 Hz
-3.4 dBmV
39.4 dB
3
0
3
 
QAM256
 
543000000 Hz
-3.3 dBmV
39.5 dB
8
0
4
 
QAM256
 
549000000 Hz
-2.9 dBmV
39.7 dB
5
0
5
 
QAM256
 
531000000 Hz
-3.3 dBmV
39.2 dB
13
0
6
 
QAM256
 
561000000 Hz
-3.5 dBmV
39.4 dB
5
0
7
 
QAM256
 
567000000 Hz
-5.0 dBmV
38.4 dB
10
0
8
 
QAM256
 
573000000 Hz
-7.3 dBmV
36.9 dB
14
0
9
 
QAM256
 
579000000 Hz
-5.6 dBmV
37.9 dB
7
0
10
 
QAM256
 
585000000 Hz
-3.8 dBmV
39.1 dB
4
0
11
 
QAM256
 
591000000 Hz
-3.1 dBmV
39.5 dB
3
0
12
 
QAM256
 
597000000 Hz
-3.0 dBmV
39.4 dB
8
0
13
 
QAM256
 
603000000 Hz
-2.7 dBmV
39.6 dB
1
0
14
 
QAM256
 
609000000 Hz
-2.8 dBmV
39.5 dB
2
0
15
 
QAM256
 
615000000 Hz
-2.9 dBmV
39.5 dB
1
0
16
 
QAM256
 
621000000 Hz
-3.0 dBmV
39.4 dB
2
0

Total Correctables
Total Uncorrectables
92
0


Upstream Bonded Channels
Channel
Lock Status
US Channel Type
Channel ID
Symbol Rate
Frequency
Power
1
 
ATDMA
 
5120 Ksym/sec
30600000 Hz
48.5 dBmV
2
 
ATDMA
 
5120 Ksym/sec
24200000 Hz
47.8 dBmV
3
 
TDMA
 
2560 Ksym/sec
19400000 Hz
46.3 dBmV
4
 
ATDMA
 
2560 Ksym/sec
37000000 Hz
48.3 dBmV

CM IP Address
Duration
Expires
 
D: -- H: -- M: -- S: --
--- --- -- --:--:-- ----


Current System Time: Thu Jan 12 08:03:41 2017

 

[T.L]

Well it looks like you were able to reboot your modem,
Everything looks ok so far
except where is your Ip address unless you banked it out and that's ok

Now that you seem to be able to access the gate way have you had any issues since then with you Ethernet dropping out?

 

[sith2886]

I just got home from work and it only drops when i open a new tab, I'd put good money it'll drop for a second when I post this reply.

Edit huh guess I was wrong. anyway the more tabs i open the more times it drops then comes back on

 

[T.L]

Go back into your router config setup and check the Dhcp lease time and see what it is set at.
Something in the range of 1440 minutes is ok, if it is set to 5 minutes then that is your problem.

If that doesn’t work set your ip address to static.
Also make sure that your QOS is set to off.

 

[PCHeintz72]

For brands generally I stick with Netgear for the network hardware myself, though I tend to either use whatever the ISP gives, or use Actiontech or Netgear for the router/modem.

But that is just me.

Years ago I had the occasional Linksys unit as well and was fine. Never had good luck with D-Link.

 

[Contrabardus]

For brands generally I stick with Netgear for the network hardware myself, though I tend to either use whatever the ISP gives, or use Actiontech or Netgear for the router/modem.  

But that is just me.  

Years ago I had the occasional Linksys unit as well and was fine.  Never had good luck with D-Link.

Second this. Netgear is the best for the buck, Linksys is also fine, but tends to not be quite as good as Netgear.

 

[PCHeintz72]

For brands generally I stick with Netgear for the network hardware myself, though I tend to either use whatever the ISP gives, or use Actiontech or Netgear for the router/modem.  

But that is just me.  

Years ago I had the occasional Linksys unit as well and was fine.  Never had good luck with D-Link.

Second this. Netgear is the best for the buck, Linksys is also fine, but tends to not be quite as good as Netgear.

Netgear is mostly the centerpiece of my house central wiring, has been for 4.5 years, and I've been using their hubs and switches in total for over 15+ years, though I tend toward the steel cased units whenever possible. The darn things are built like tanks, and not really that much more expensive than some cheaper units. I've practically never had issues with them. They work on equally well on desks, in attic crawl ways, in basement rafters, or in central wiring units.

Linksys is a non-issue anymore since it is no longer being sold. Pity... their steel units in my own experience were quite good, if not quite as solid as Netgear. Mostly, I used to get Linksys when Netgear was unavailable and was in a hurry. At the time the local CompSys and Best Buys around me carried more of Linksys than Netgear.

I've heard TP-Link is supposed to make similarly good smart switches... but I've never used them.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Windows 10 just made it impossible to scroll through pictures, instead when I use the middle mouse key it changes the size and makies me have to click an arrow button to switch to another picture

Use the right/left arrow keys.  The response is more tactile/precise than the old scroll method.

 

[sith2886]

okay I'm back, just went and got a new modem and it's doing the same thing as the old one dhcp lease time says 1 hour

 

[T.L]

Ok two routers and same problem then The router isn't the issue.

PC stats please
Windows version etc.

 

[Contrabardus]

Have you tried a different wire?

It could be as simple as an issue with your ethernet cable.

 

[sith2886]

Ok two routers and same problem then The router isn't the issue.

PC stats please
Windows version etc.

Windows 10 home with the latest updates on an HP laptop
processor AMD A6-5200 APU with Radeon HD graphics 2.00 GHz
4 GB RAM
need anything else?

Also side note: should the disconnecting and reconnecting affect things like Songs playing in winamp? everytime it tries to reconnect my music skips
 

Have you tried a different wire?

It could be as simple as an issue with your ethernet cable.

4 including the one that came with the other modem
The first Modem I had (which was just a modem not a combo modem/router) worked fine wires and all

 

[PCHeintz72]

Like I had warned, it is likely configuration, or as another person stated, the wire and port connectivity. IN the case of either, a new unit would not fix the issue.

Generally, system specs these days should not matter overly much on a semi-modern unit as all meet specs for a high speed internet connection.

Port and wire connectivity is fairly standard, I find it unlikely 4 different cables would not work, but I do not know condition of your cables either... so below is a simple enough guideline for pretty much anyone. I know from prior posts the unit itself is 10/100/1000, but I don't know the port using on the computer.

0. As stupid as it sounds, under no circumstances use phone wire for ethernet. Some connectors actually allow you to plug a 2-4 wire rj11/rj12 connector and phone wire into a 8 wire rj45 network ethernet port. Never do it, it will almost certainly not work right. I figure about the only way this could have occurred is if your unit came with a phone wire and were not looking when plugged it in.

1. Is the cable a Cat5, Cat5e or Cat6 or unlikely higher (Cat6+ or 7)? Minimum needed for 1000mhz/Gigabit Ethernet is a good Cat5e. Minimum needed for for 100mhz/Fast Ethernet is good Cat5 or any Cat6. Anything lower (Cat3, Cat4, bad or early gen Cat5) is 10mhz/Ethernet only and these days considered junk for networking. Also, make sure *all 8* wires are correctly used by that cable. Old network wires in a lot of cases used 4 of the 8. There are a *lot* of standards and terms used in network connectors, but just calling it by the Cat# standard it complies with normally is enough.

2. Do not mismatch port and wire... Do not put a Cat6 cable on a computer port that is rated for only 100mhz/Fast Ethernet.

3. Examine the boot or connector shielding, make sure it is completely intact and good condition. Badly shielded wires can cause vary odd things. I once had a badly shielded phone wire connected to a v.52 modem, the result, the modem speaker was playing radio stations as the bad wire was acting like an antenna and feeding back into the system.

I doubt you made your own wires, so I'm not going to go into wire patterns or crimp techniques.

If it is configuration...

1. I should note by default a modem/router/gateway is unlikely to work out of box without configuing unless you got it directly from the ISP. Look closely at the specs for that modem/router/gateway... then actually look on-line to see what your ISP actually requires... not all DSL modems work with all DSL ISP's. there is for example ADSL and VDSL, then there are the actual settings... some units have a wizard walkthrough and a large number of ISP configuations from a list.

2. If no wizard or on-line page you can see the settings your ISP uses, all is not lost. If you still have the old unit you used to have that worked with the ISP, even if it is broke, if you can access the settings on it you can compare them and see what might be different.

3. I do not know if you had any other devices connected during your trials, but try running it with a single cable to your system and no other systems/devices connected, it is possible some other device is interferring. Even if your *system* is all set up correctly and a good wire, if you had for example another system or a printer with a bad wire connected that could bring it down.

4. try setting your system to a static IP... I know that was mentioned before, but when doing so, also check your unit to insure #1, that it is not using that same IP, and #2, that the settings for the allowable IP range the unit allows is set to accept that IP. If not, then you will be unable to connect.

EDIT #5. Try networking, instead of internet. Like have a 2nd system connected by cable and try actually accessing it remotely and logging in and either copying some files or playing music or video form it, I'm wondering if this cutting out is also affecting networking, not just internet. It could give a clue as to where the problem is.

Outside of that... not too much I can say that can help you specifically.

 

[sith2886]

The wire I'm currently using was the same I used before all of this started. the other one (not included in the previous modem) may be a phone line but I don't really know. currently I'm using the Wifi I was given to test out until tomorrow/the end of the weekend (still not sure how they can charge me a fee for using the Wifi but it's moot at this point) and as of yet have had no problems so I'm going to go out on a limb and say it is, for what ever reason the Ethernet port/wire which is strange because as I said the original modem I had before stupidly agreeing to get the one that was causing me grief worked fine

 

[PCHeintz72]

The wire I'm currently using was the same I used before all of this started. the other one (not included in the previous modem) may be a phone line but I don't really know. currently I'm using the Wifi I was given to test out until tomorrow/the end of the weekend (still not sure how they can charge me a fee for using the Wifi but it's moot at this point) and as of yet have had no problems so I'm going to go out on a limb and say it is, for what ever reason the Ethernet port/wire which is strange because as I said the original  modem I had before stupidly agreeing to get the one that was causing me grief worked fine

I keep wondering about that... if it is really wifi... I'm thinking you are using a portable wireless WiFi hotspot.. in which case they can charge you because it is an actual separate device and technically a separate address. In effect, for the duration you are running multiple accounts with the ISP. If that is the case, you want to ditch that asap, as that will cost you far more than a normal home internet solution and probably slower than your normal internet anyway.

If it is wireless, meaning you are using your new unit but wirelessly or gave you a unit to plug in in place of the one not working, I cannot see how they can charge on that except perhaps a loaner fee for the unit... because traffic on an account is traffic on an account... be it wireless or wired.

 

[sith2886]

A loner fee then to replace the lease of the unit maybe? Whatever it is I've been using the Wifi for an hour now and have had no hiccups so far except for the odd affect it has on winamp as I mentioned before

 

[ThreadWeaver]

I say this with extreme caution because with how flaky it is, I can't guarantee it will come back.
I am thinking you should go into the device manager and uninstall the ethernet port. This will cause you to lose all connectivity with that port until you reboot, so be careful. Obviously reboot the system right away unless there was some sort of critical error or warnings that pop up while uninstalling the hardware.
Once it reboots, it SHOULD redetect the hardware, reinstall drivers and reset all the network settings for that adapter. It's kind of a tactical nuke option but it has fixed a number of quirky networking issues for me in the past.

 

[Contrabardus]

A loner fee then to replace the lease of the unit maybe? Whatever it is I've been using the Wifi for an hour now and have had no hiccups so far except for the odd affect it has on winamp as I mentioned before

This makes no sense.

I really can't see how they can even meter Wifi usage. It's just a local radio transmitter and receiver.

If your ISP is charging you for local network Wifi use you're getting ripped off and should find a new ISP.

Charging someone for an in home local wifi network is no different than charging someone for using their remote control to change channels or charging someone for network use when they drive a little remote control car around their home.

If your ISP is doing this to you, dump them. If they're willing to nickle and dime you in such a shady way I wouldn't trust them for a moment, and billing is likely to turn into a nightmare.

 

[T.L]

Have you done a malware/virus scan recently?

Opening a tab should use next to no RAM
If winamp is stuttering when this happens it sounds like something is running and your running out of RAM.

As I said earlier we now know through two modems and now your WIFI is ok. so it's specific to your laptop.

As Threadweaver said  open your device manager and check to see if there is a yellow dot next to the network adapters. If not open the tab and under power management make sure that the check box for 'allow computer to turn this device off to save power is 'NOT' checked.

Micro$oft does strange things with updates. I have found this box checked after updates even-thou it's a desktop.

 

[sith2886]

A loner fee then to replace the lease of the unit maybe? Whatever it is I've been using the Wifi for an hour now and have had no hiccups so far except for the odd affect it has on winamp as I mentioned before

This makes no sense.

I really can't see how they can even meter Wifi usage. It's just a local radio transmitter and receiver.

If your ISP is charging you for local network Wifi use you're getting ripped off and should find a new ISP.

Charging someone for an in home local wifi network is no different than charging someone for using their remote control to change channels or charging someone for network use when they drive a little remote control car around their home.

If your ISP is doing this to you, dump them. If they're willing to nickle and dime you in such a shady way I wouldn't trust them for a moment, and billing is likely to turn into a nightmare.

To clarify, a $4.95 fee is charged for home wifi ONLY if you are leasing a wifi router from TWC or if you are leasing a MODEM from us that has wifi capabilities AND you are using those wifi capabilities.

http://forums.timewarnercable.com/t5/Home-Networking/What-is-up-with-the-quot-Home-Wifi-quot-charge-of-4-95/m-p/12237#M259