Official Computer Help Thread
- Thread starter ArchfiendRai
- Start date
He's right and it sounds like you might have picked something up that's eating up your RAM or running your CPU pretty hard. Maybe a bitcoin miner or something like that?
I'd open your task manager and scroll down your processes to see if anything is using an unusual amount of memory or CPU cycles.
I also highly recommend running ADWcleaner and Malwarebytes. ADWcleaner is more for getting rid of adware, and Malwarebytes is anti-malware. The free versions of both are all you need. They are both owned by the same company and work well together.
I also use Roguekiller personally, but that's a more advanced tool. It will find stuff Malwarebytes doesn't sometimes, but also tends to give more false positives, particularly with PuPs and Hidden ADS processes. If you decide to use it, I recommend doing a google search for anything it finds that seems like it might be legit before having it remove them.
After that I'd do a boot-time scan with Avast just to be sure.
CCleaner isn't really anti-virus, it's mostly for cleaning up leftover registry keys and clearing memory caches. That's useful and you should do it on occasion, but it's not going to help much if you've picked up a virus or malware.
I'd open your task manager and scroll down your processes to see if anything is using an unusual amount of memory or CPU cycles.
I also highly recommend running ADWcleaner and Malwarebytes. ADWcleaner is more for getting rid of adware, and Malwarebytes is anti-malware. The free versions of both are all you need. They are both owned by the same company and work well together.
I also use Roguekiller personally, but that's a more advanced tool. It will find stuff Malwarebytes doesn't sometimes, but also tends to give more false positives, particularly with PuPs and Hidden ADS processes. If you decide to use it, I recommend doing a google search for anything it finds that seems like it might be legit before having it remove them.
After that I'd do a boot-time scan with Avast just to be sure.
CCleaner isn't really anti-virus, it's mostly for cleaning up leftover registry keys and clearing memory caches. That's useful and you should do it on occasion, but it's not going to help much if you've picked up a virus or malware.
Odd, if anything, it should be the other way around.
Wired connections, particularly cat6 or higher gigabit are generally much faster, reliable, and stable than wifi or wireless in a standard house. And despite what many companies would have you believe, the metal piping, electrical wiring, and duct work in many houses make wireless an iffy prospect at best.
My mothers house for example before she sold it. Without configuring the devices to boost the signal strength, I could barely get across the floor of a house, let alone between floors, even with a newer device on the main floor, reception in the top floor and basement was iffy.
My current house is better, but even when we've experimented with it, for good signal strength through the house required placement in the kitchen of all places... any other spot entailed dead zones in the house.
My central wiring unit, with Cat6 wire and netgear gigabit switches with wired lines to most every room, has worked solid since I've installed it. I merely plug the modem into that. Internet house wide. Only thing I have had to do on occasion is reset the modem itself... generally every 2-4 months.
Since you seem convinced it is not a cable I'm still betting it is a configuration setting.
Wired connections, particularly cat6 or higher gigabit are generally much faster, reliable, and stable than wifi or wireless in a standard house. And despite what many companies would have you believe, the metal piping, electrical wiring, and duct work in many houses make wireless an iffy prospect at best.
My mothers house for example before she sold it. Without configuring the devices to boost the signal strength, I could barely get across the floor of a house, let alone between floors, even with a newer device on the main floor, reception in the top floor and basement was iffy.
My current house is better, but even when we've experimented with it, for good signal strength through the house required placement in the kitchen of all places... any other spot entailed dead zones in the house.
My central wiring unit, with Cat6 wire and netgear gigabit switches with wired lines to most every room, has worked solid since I've installed it. I merely plug the modem into that. Internet house wide. Only thing I have had to do on occasion is reset the modem itself... generally every 2-4 months.
Since you seem convinced it is not a cable I'm still betting it is a configuration setting.
When you plug the Ethernet cable into the Modem/Router do the lights on the back light up?
There should be a green light above the port and red light below where it says ETH1,2,etc.
Hopefully you have installed it standing upright.
Also do you run your phones off this unit if so are they working?
Update from the manual
The ETH1, ETH2, ETH3, or ETH4 LEDs on the back of the modem are not lit where Ethernet cables are connected.
Restart the computer so that it can re-establish a connection with the DVW32CB.
Check for a resource conflict (Windows users only):
1. Right-click
My Computer on your desktop and choose Properties
2. Choose the
Device Manager tab and look for a yellow exclamation point or red 'x' over the network interface card (NIC) in the Network Adapters field. If you see either one, you may have an interrupt request (IRQ) conflict. Refer to the manufacturer’s documentation or ask your service provider for further assistance.
Verify that TCP/IP is the default protocol for your network interface card.
Power cycle the DVW32CB by removing the power cord from the electrical outlet and plugging it back in. Wait for the device to re-establish communications with your cable service provider.
Check General Connectivity Issues:
If your PC is connected to another hub or gateway, connect the PC directly into an Ethernet port on the DVW32CB.
If you are using a cable splitter, remove the splitter and connect the gateway directly to the cable wall outlet. Wait for it to re-establish communications with the cable service provider.
http://m.setuprouter.com/router/ubee/dvw32cb/manual-2016.pdf
There should be a green light above the port and red light below where it says ETH1,2,etc.
Hopefully you have installed it standing upright.
Also do you run your phones off this unit if so are they working?
Update from the manual
The ETH1, ETH2, ETH3, or ETH4 LEDs on the back of the modem are not lit where Ethernet cables are connected.
Restart the computer so that it can re-establish a connection with the DVW32CB.
Check for a resource conflict (Windows users only):
1. Right-click
My Computer on your desktop and choose Properties
2. Choose the
Device Manager tab and look for a yellow exclamation point or red 'x' over the network interface card (NIC) in the Network Adapters field. If you see either one, you may have an interrupt request (IRQ) conflict. Refer to the manufacturer’s documentation or ask your service provider for further assistance.
Verify that TCP/IP is the default protocol for your network interface card.
Power cycle the DVW32CB by removing the power cord from the electrical outlet and plugging it back in. Wait for the device to re-establish communications with your cable service provider.
Check General Connectivity Issues:
If your PC is connected to another hub or gateway, connect the PC directly into an Ethernet port on the DVW32CB.
If you are using a cable splitter, remove the splitter and connect the gateway directly to the cable wall outlet. Wait for it to re-establish communications with the cable service provider.
http://m.setuprouter.com/router/ubee/dvw32cb/manual-2016.pdf
It lights up but flashes orange
No phone connected, I opted out of that because I have a cell phone (flip phone not smart phone)
And yes it's standing upright
Also should have updated you on the new modem it's now a Technicolor_TC8715D_AWG_Modem_Router
https://www.timewarnercable.com/content/dam/careportals/equipment/manuals/Technicolor_TC8715D_AWG_Modem_Router_manual.pdf
No phone connected, I opted out of that because I have a cell phone (flip phone not smart phone)
And yes it's standing upright
Also should have updated you on the new modem it's now a Technicolor_TC8715D_AWG_Modem_Router
https://www.timewarnercable.com/content/dam/careportals/equipment/manuals/Technicolor_TC8715D_AWG_Modem_Router_manual.pdf
Tangential to the discussion, but with a windows PC and I assume intel networking hardware, have you ever found this advice necessary? Granted, I've done it a few times myself - but only when I'm fiddling with VPNs or something of the sort. In normal course, it feels a bit extreme.
But yes, if he's got wifi working, there should be nothing to lose by trying it out.
-chronodekar
But yes, if he's got wifi working, there should be nothing to lose by trying it out.
-chronodekar
I had to do it twice with my father in law's machines in the last nine months, one being on Windows 10 when the upgrade borked the networking in a weird way. Sometimes the tcpip stack gets corrupted and the fastest way to completely reset it is to simply delete the adapter and let the system reinstall/reinitialize it. I warn people simply because I had one person that flipped out at me because it didn't work perfectly on the next boot (because there was something wrong with the hardware) and it stopped working entirely.
There used to be an easy utility to reset the stack up through windows XP, but the utility didn't work on newer OSs. EDIT: I think it was DrTCP but my memory is a tad fuzzy about that period in my life.
I think you can do it with Netsh but it's just as easy to delete the adapter and you're guaranteed everything starts from scratch.
There used to be an easy utility to reset the stack up through windows XP, but the utility didn't work on newer OSs. EDIT: I think it was DrTCP but my memory is a tad fuzzy about that period in my life.
I think you can do it with Netsh but it's just as easy to delete the adapter and you're guaranteed everything starts from scratch.
Like Threadweaver, I've done it a few times over the years myself... The problem is that while in theory a ethernet rj45 wired connection should be straightforward, Windows attaches a lot of other related functionality to it, examples include bridging, associating type of network type and rights, encryption support, and homegroup codes (I do not use those, but many do), ... deleting the connection removes all those dependancies and gives back the raw driver and connection. Normally, once that is done, a mere reconfiguration with the available wizard gets back only what is really needed.
A slightly different approach, which has somewhat similar effects, is changing the computer network name... which forces a reset or reevaluation of all network connections upon reboot and can correct some issues. While that carries with it similar benefits, but has the disadvantage of potentially affecting all connections, which is only rarely desired. I generally instead go with the deleting of the connection instead. Since wireless wifi connection is ok, I did not recommend this approach.
EDIT: BTW, Intel network hardware should not always be assumed, but even so makes little difference. Atheros is also common on notebooks and netbooks for example (My Acer AMD Netbook for example), just to name one brand. Likewise, from before the buyout, Realtek chips are in a lot of systems. And I have a HP port replicator with a port chipset by Microchip Technology.
A slightly different approach, which has somewhat similar effects, is changing the computer network name... which forces a reset or reevaluation of all network connections upon reboot and can correct some issues. While that carries with it similar benefits, but has the disadvantage of potentially affecting all connections, which is only rarely desired. I generally instead go with the deleting of the connection instead. Since wireless wifi connection is ok, I did not recommend this approach.
EDIT: BTW, Intel network hardware should not always be assumed, but even so makes little difference. Atheros is also common on notebooks and netbooks for example (My Acer AMD Netbook for example), just to name one brand. Likewise, from before the buyout, Realtek chips are in a lot of systems. And I have a HP port replicator with a port chipset by Microchip Technology.
I signed up for a free 2 week trial with Funimation's site, to check out some of the current/recent shows, but they keep buffering every few seconds. I contacted Funimation, but they've not gotten back to me.
I'm halfway through my free trial, and I'm considering just cancelling my account. Any one got an idea how to fix this? I'm not having this problem with any other site, like Crunchyroll or Youtube.
I'm halfway through my free trial, and I'm considering just cancelling my account. Any one got an idea how to fix this? I'm not having this problem with any other site, like Crunchyroll or Youtube.
If you're using NoScript in Firefox, try using the "Temporarily allow all on this page" setting and see if it fixes it. Usually NoScript keeps a site from working at all, but occasionally it makes one go wonky. If it does fix it, then "revoke temporary permissions" and add them back temporarily one at a time until you find the one that's causing it.
Otherwise, try a different browser like chrono said.
Or, try using a lower resolution option. If you're forcing 1080p, you need between 5-15 Mbps bandwidth just for that one stream depending on compression. If someone else is streaming at the same time... yeah, good luck on that.
If you're in the US, there is a chance you might be running afoul of Fuhrer Trump's apathy/animosity towards net neutrality. At this point corporations rightfully believe that they can do whatever they want and he won't stop them. Funimation may not be willing to pay-to-play so to speak.
Otherwise, try a different browser like chrono said.
Or, try using a lower resolution option. If you're forcing 1080p, you need between 5-15 Mbps bandwidth just for that one stream depending on compression. If someone else is streaming at the same time... yeah, good luck on that.
If you're in the US, there is a chance you might be running afoul of Fuhrer Trump's apathy/animosity towards net neutrality. At this point corporations rightfully believe that they can do whatever they want and he won't stop them. Funimation may not be willing to pay-to-play so to speak.
My old PC's PSU fried recently and I decided to just get a refurbished one instead of replacing/rebuilding. I have a lot of music on the other HDD though, will this accomplish my goal of transferring them to my new pc?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/?tag=hotoge-20
Or any suggestions for something better.
Old PC was a Vista x64, refurbished is Win 7 x64.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQJME7Y/?tag=hotoge-20
Or any suggestions for something better.
Old PC was a Vista x64, refurbished is Win 7 x64.
No it should fit.
If you open tbe case you'll possibly find the existing drive in a bracket mounted inside, usually they have room underneath the original for an extra drive.
They possibly might be affixed with special screws to stop people tampering with them. These are usually not too tight and a little bit of finesse with a normal screwdriver can overcome that issue.
You'll need to make sure if your original drive has a jumper, to set it to slave not master.
Mount your drive into the bracket and attach the original screws.
Plug in power and drive cables, these only go in one way.
Reboot system
Enter your bios to make sure that the drive is recognized.
Exit and reboot.
Hopefully every thing works.
If you open tbe case you'll possibly find the existing drive in a bracket mounted inside, usually they have room underneath the original for an extra drive.
They possibly might be affixed with special screws to stop people tampering with them. These are usually not too tight and a little bit of finesse with a normal screwdriver can overcome that issue.
You'll need to make sure if your original drive has a jumper, to set it to slave not master.
Mount your drive into the bracket and attach the original screws.
Plug in power and drive cables, these only go in one way.
Reboot system
Enter your bios to make sure that the drive is recognized.
Exit and reboot.
Hopefully every thing works.
We would be able to be more specific if you gave the hard drive brand and model number from the old system.
Assuming that link is to the replacement system then it does not list the USB type, but the front ones are all but certainly USB 2, as they are not blue in color but black.
The old drive does not need to fit, and if you are wary of opening the case, then do not bother. Also, I've worked on HP Slimlines before, they can be a nightmare due to cable routing.
What was showed will allow the old hard drive to be physically connected if it is actually a SATA drive, and if notebook IDE, but if desktop IDE you may need a power adapter as well.
Note, with cables like that, they generally work fine for temporary use, like for the purpose of you using explorer/my computer and grabbing everything off it you want (not just music, should grab email, music videos, pictures, favorites/bookmarks, personal files, etc).
But if you want to permanently use that as a secondary drive it would be better to get one of the many many cheap enclosures out there for it.
Examples
for 2.5" SATA drive to USB 2
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0VN-0003-000H3
for 3.5" SATA drive to USB 2
- https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182155&cm_re=hard_drive_enclosure-_-17-182-155-_-Product
Assuming that link is to the replacement system then it does not list the USB type, but the front ones are all but certainly USB 2, as they are not blue in color but black.
The old drive does not need to fit, and if you are wary of opening the case, then do not bother. Also, I've worked on HP Slimlines before, they can be a nightmare due to cable routing.
What was showed will allow the old hard drive to be physically connected if it is actually a SATA drive, and if notebook IDE, but if desktop IDE you may need a power adapter as well.
Note, with cables like that, they generally work fine for temporary use, like for the purpose of you using explorer/my computer and grabbing everything off it you want (not just music, should grab email, music videos, pictures, favorites/bookmarks, personal files, etc).
But if you want to permanently use that as a secondary drive it would be better to get one of the many many cheap enclosures out there for it.
Examples
for 2.5" SATA drive to USB 2
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=0VN-0003-000H3
for 3.5" SATA drive to USB 2
- https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182155&cm_re=hard_drive_enclosure-_-17-182-155-_-Product