..... my car............ -.-*

[WarmasterCain55]

My car has a hole in the gas tank right now, tiny hole but a hole nonetheless..? I plugged it up as best as I could, but if I don't get that temp job I'm aiming for, it's going to keep dripping.

I really hate the smell of gas now.

Go to the auto parts store and ask for something called "JB Weld" It's a paste that you mix and apply like putty but bonds like a weld. Make sure the fuel is well below the level of the hole and mix some up and spread over the hole. Do not use the car until the package says it has cured (I don't remember how long anymore).

I had to do just this on my first car: a 1978 Mercury Zephyr. It was already 12 years old by the time I started driving and had suffered greatly in the Minnesota WintersÖ.

Make sure they haven't changed the recipe and added any "This will detonate when around gas fumes" warnings...

I used the jb weld already. I actually had the idea of screwing a screw in there to help limit the amount of gas coming out. Of course, I had to make the hole just a tiny bit bigger but it screwed in and stayed there. Used sealant to seal around it, JB'ed it, sealed it and it worked for a while.

But then, I believe that due to the large amount of bouncing and crashing, it jarred something loose and started dripping again. Then I noticed something. If the gas tank is full, it'll leak more due to the weight pressing down on it and when it's abou 5 gallons or so, it'll slow down considerably, possibly stop if truck is left alone.

 

[MARQUIS DE SADE]

And when you're asking for a list of items you might need, do you mean just generally useful stuff - like a warning triangle, road maps, a spare tire, a first aid kit - or are you asking what parts you'll probably have to replace?

Just general items. So far the list I have made in my head has the following.

Oil
Transmission Fluid
Brake Fluid
Anti-Freeze
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Triangle Flares
ABC Class Fire Extinguisher
Jumper/Booster Cables or a Jumper Box
Extra Serpentine Belt
Reflective Vest
Extra Light Bulbs
Extra Wiper Blades
Head Mounted Mining Lamp
Lug Wrench with Cheater Pipe
Jack
Full Size Spare Tire
Tire Pump
And a 40 Channel CB Radio with Weather Bands

 

[WarmasterCain55]

Add onto that two sets of blankets, another high power flashlight, I like mag light, extra batteries, and the best first aid kit you can get at the store.

 

[MARQUIS DE SADE]

Add onto that two sets of blankets, another high power flashlight, I like mag light, extra batteries, and the best first aid kit you can get at the store.

I have a 3-D Cell Mag-Lite and a 1.5 Million Candlepower Q-Beam Lamp. I also have extra blankets at my house. I will have to get a first aid kit. Thank you for the assistance Gaara, ThreadWeaver, and foesjoe.

 

[PCHeintz72]

EDIT: Never mind

 

[crazyfoxdemon]

My car has a hole in the gas tank right now, tiny hole but a hole nonetheless..á I plugged it up as best as I could, but if I don't get that temp job I'm aiming for, it's going to keep dripping.

I really hate the smell of gas now.

Go to the auto parts store and ask for something called "JB Weld" It's a paste that you mix and apply like putty but bonds like a weld. Make sure the fuel is well below the level of the hole and mix some up and spread over the hole. Do not use the car until the package says it has cured (I don't remember how long anymore).

I had to do just this on my first car: a 1978 Mercury Zephyr. It was already 12 years old by the time I started driving and had suffered greatly in the Minnesota WintersÖ.

Make sure they haven't changed the recipe and added any "This will detonate when around gas fumes" warnings...

I used the jb weld already. I actually had the idea of screwing a screw in there to help limit the amount of gas coming out. Of course, I had to make the hole just a tiny bit bigger but it screwed in and stayed there. Used sealant to seal around it, JB'ed it, sealed it and it worked for a while.

But then, I believe that due to the large amount of bouncing and crashing, it jarred something loose and started dripping again. Then I noticed something. If the gas tank is full, it'll leak more due to the weight pressing down on it and when it's abou 5 gallons or so, it'll slow down considerably, possibly stop if truck is left alone.

Have you tried looking on ebay or craigslist for a replacement gas tank?

 

[akun50]

I want to mention my beast.

It's a 1998 Oldsmobile Delta 88 SE. I bought it in 2007 when it had 66000 or so miles on it. It had brand new tires on it too.

That's roughly 550 miles a month or 18 miles a day. I drive more than that just going to work and back.

Only things weird about it when I got it were:
1) It had a reinforcements to allow it to have a plow attached. :blink:

2) It would occassionally randomly stall. The stall could last 1-5 secs to 6 HOURS. Sometimes it would start right back up, other times, it would take six or so tries.

The later was one hell of a fiasco to fix. And about $1000 worth of part changes and eight months of running with the problem intermittently showing up, we finally found out someone just forgot to fucking register a replacement for one of the two gas pumps to the computer.

TEN FUCKING MECHANICS didn't bother to check if all the parts were initialized, and all but four of them instead said it was some other part that was faulting and charged me $100-200 to replace said part (plus labor and tax). Oh, it ran better after the part was replaced, but it still stalled. :no:

The last four before the one who figured out the problem were at least nice enough to tell me that since they couldn't figure out what was wrong, that the inspection was free.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Wait... wut?

Registering a fuel pump with the onboard computer?

I have never heard of such a thing. It doesn't mean it doesn't happen, but that's just... weird. I'd be interested to learn how they do that.

Most (as they are now in the gas tank) have only three or four wires. Power, ground, fuel level, and sometimes low level detect. I've heard that nissan can have 6 with fuel temp detect as well. But I've never heard of a fuel pump being intelligent enough to need to be registered with the main computer or even that it was possible. It was my understanding that they generally don't use flash ram or eeproms in car engine computers because of all the electrical interference possibly corrupting data.

Learn something new every day...

 

[akun50]

Wait... wut?

Registering a fuel pump with the onboard computer?

I have never heard of such a thing.á It doesn't mean it doesn't happen, but that's just... weird.á I'd be interested to learn how they do that.

Most (as they are now in the gas tank) have only three or four wires.á Power, ground, fuel level, and sometimes low level detect.á I've heard that nissan can have 6 with fuel temp detect as well.á But I've never heard of a fuel pump being intelligent enough to need to be registered with the main computer or even that it was possible. It was my understanding that they generally don't use flash ram or eeproms in car engine computers because of all the electrical interference possibly corrupting data.

Learn something new every day...

Well, they said "register", so it was likely that the line for the detector was failing, hence it wasn't "detected", so the car would randomly think it'd failed and stop the car, probably out of some bizarre "gotta save the engine" logic or some bullshit like that.

Then again, it was made back in 1997, so :huh.: . From what I've heard from mechanics, they were doing a lot of weird stuff in the 90s that they'd do for one model and then never again.




Oh, I have another story: my brother bought a used 2000 Ford Windstar about six years ago. The only weird thing I'd noted was that there was only one key for both the lock and ignition and it had a microchip in it. There used to be a remote, but it was apparently lost/destroyed by the previous owner.

About a year ago, my brother lost the key to the van and had to have it taken in to get a new set made.

Except the Ford dealer was having trouble doing so.

Apparently, there was a fault in the computer so that it wouldn't allow for a duplicate key to be made.

Ever.

It took the FORD DEALERSHIP THREE DAYS to make a new set of keys, and they'd had to send for a whole new computer for the van. The mechanics said they'd never seen that kind of fault before.

For our troubles, they only had us pay for labor, which they reduced given how little they could do until the computer came in.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

I used the jb weld already.á I actually had the idea of screwing a screw in there to help limit the amount of gas coming out.á Of course, I had to make the hole just a tiny bit bigger but it screwed in and stayed there.á Used sealant to seal around it, JB'ed it, sealed it and it worked for a while.

But then, I believe that due to the large amount of bouncing and crashing, it jarred something loose and started dripping again.á Then I noticed something.á If the gas tank is full, it'll leak more due to the weight pressing down on it and when it's abou 5 gallons or so, it'll slow down considerably, possibly stop if truck is left alone.

I was at the auto parts store today getting bead sealer for my snowblower tire and came across this stuff. Maybe it will help:

Then again, it was made back in 1997, so dunno.gif . From what I've heard from mechanics, they were doing a lot of weird stuff in the 90s that they'd do for one model and then never again.


Oh, I have another story: my brother bought a used 2000 Ford Windstar about six years ago. The only weird thing I'd noted was that there was only one key for both the lock and ignition and it had a microchip in it. There used to be a remote, but it was apparently lost/destroyed by the previous owner.

Oh, they still do screwy things. My 2002 Sonoma truck has a "feature" that everytime I turn on my turn signal, the onboard computer turns off the daytime running lights and then back on again after the signal is done, so if I'm signaling a lot, the lights are flashing on and off. I'm still waiting for a gang member to misinterpret it as a gang challenge and try to put a bullet in me.

My wife's car (1999 buick century), formerly my mother's before she died, has that exact same thing as your windstar. There's a chip embedded in the shaft of the key. Pain in the ass, it is. Something tells me it was some exec trying to boost dealership service revenue because only the dealerships could make copies.

 

[WarmasterCain55]

My car...sigh...

My car is a '95 Nissian pickup and lately it's been having problems, besides the gas tank issue that is.

When I'm driving, sometimes the engine would just stop, not shut off, just go to neutral (best way I can describe it) and then pick back up again. It'll do this for a while.

Now, after sitting two days, with low gas I might add but I just put what leaked back in so that shouldn't be the problem, as I'm driving, it would shift and then the engine stalls, forcing me to start it up again.

And now I'm going to have to take it to Pepboys to see what the problem is or rather have it towed if it keeps up.

I know what the problem is. My truck is old and I need a new one.

 

[nuclear death frog]

My car...sigh...

My car is a '95 Nissian pickup and lately it's been having problems, besides the gas tank issue that is.

When I'm driving, sometimes the engine would just stop, not shut off, just go to neutral (best way I can describe it) and then pick back up again. It'll do this for a while.

Now, after sitting two days, with low gas I might add but I just put what leaked back in so that shouldn't be the problem, as I'm driving, it would shift and then the engine stalls, forcing me to start it up again.

And now I'm going to have to take it to Pepboys to see what the problem is or rather have it towed if it keeps up.

I know what the problem is. My truck is old and I need a new one.

That sounds a little like a problem I had with the transmission of the last car I had (a '92 Taurus). You might be able to get away with just putting in a new transmission, if that is indeed the problem. But doing so would probably cost more than the truck is worth so you might just be better off getting a newer vehicle.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

If the automatic transmission randomly shifts, then the first thing is to check the auto transmission fluid level. Check the manual on how to do it for your vehicle, but for mine (GMs), the engine and transmission have to be warm, parked on a level surface, in Park, and running when I check the level.

Most transmission fluid should be red. If it's brown, black or smells burnt, or has shavings that wipe off the dipstick, that is a symptom of either old fluid (brown color) or a bad transmission problem (all the rest). If it randomly stalls when it's shifting, I fear you are chewing up your transmission. Does it do it on a specific gear?

 

[T.L]

How cold is it where you are?.
You could just be having fluid problems due to the cold weather. Especially below freezing temps.
Your auto fluid may be just require replacement, as ThreadWeaver described, Or it could be just very cold. Auto fluid viscosity is important, If it gets too thick it will have trouble moving through the valve body, clutch packs, and torque converter. Which could explain your stalling issues. As I can see no reason for an auto to cause stalling except for catastrophic failure.

Hope this helps
W/R

 

[Halibel Lecter]

At least you guys can fix yours.

I was going to "inherit" [read: Halibel--we don't want this car anymore, you can have her] an Oldsmobile and fix it up [it was havign some problems with dying].

Now the headlights don't work, the engine won't turn over and the heater doesn't run, either... <_<

 

[WarmasterCain55]

Mine is a manuel trans. And its recently had a transmission flush. As for the cold, its parked in an garage but the garage door is stuck open. Lowest its been is twelve degrees. As for its choice of gears, all of them.

 

[T.L]

So....let me get this right.
Manual transmission, V6 engine configuration. Yes I hope.
Apart from needing an adjustment I don't think that the transmission is your problem.
When you start does the engine engine idle ok.
When driving you go to shift, pop the clutch and the engine stalls. Correct.

If the engine Doesn't idle ok and is rough and lumpy that is your problem with problems ranging from spark plugs and leads right through to ECU's and sensors.

Sorry my extreme cold skills aren't so good, It just doesn't get that cold here in OZ.


From the description earlier it sounded like an auto.


I gotta go to work, I'll see what I can dig up.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Mine is a manuel trans. And its recently had a transmission flush. As for the cold, its parked in an garage but the garage door is stuck open. Lowest its been is twelve degrees. As for its choice of gears, all of them.

Twelve degrees isn't cold enough to cause problems.

It can easily get colder than -20?F (-29?C) here in the winter and tranny fluid doesn't have a problem.

Is it hard to get into gear when you shift? It sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you press the pedal. That would make it stall. Could simply need an adjustment all the to some major clutch work if the synchronizers aren't working right.

Have you ever done a double-clutch before? It involves pushing the clutch pedal, moving to neutral, letting go of the pedal, re-pressing it, then shifting into gear then letting it go again. They used to have to do this by default before synchronizers were invented. It's a pain, but it might point to whether the synchs are working right.

 

[WarmasterCain55]

It idles ok, it's just when I put my foot to the pedal and start moving that the problem starts.

As for the gear shift, just recently I had to shove it back into first gear but other then that, it shifts fine. Oh, first gear is a little tough once in a while but hasn't given me problems.

I'll try the double clutch tomorrow and see what happens.

And the stalling is a new thing, just to clarify.

Slightly off topic - what happens to gas after it's been sitting in the open air for a while? I noticed the color, or whatever it is, settles to the bottom after a while

 

[T.L]

When you put your foot on the accelerator and get lots of engine revs but no go, and forcing it into gear then a clutch adjustment/replacement is required.
I think from memory that that model has a hydraulic assisted clutch.
You may want to check beside the brake master cylinder there should be a reservoir for the clutch system. Open the lid and see if there is any fluid in the system. Make sure that the cap is clean before you take the lid off and that NO water get in to the system. Water and brake fluid don't mix, and water stuffs the fluid. (For want of technical explanation)
If there is fluid then you are shit out of luck and new clutch is required.
If there is no fluid then there is a leak in the system. Not as costly but it needs to be done. You could get by with topping up the fluid all the time but that's just throwing money away.

I spoke to my work colleges and they said that the gear box / clutch won't cause stalling issues.

If the engine is stalling and idling fine then you probably have a sensor issue, Maybe a mass air sensor but that's too hard to diagnose without seeing it in action.

Fuel will go stale when left in open air or in fuel tanks for extended periods.
This could be a cause for stalling by lowering the octane rating ( how well it goes bang when compressed and lit with a spark )

P.S
An easy test to see if the clutch is no good.
Make sure you do this in an empty car-park.
Pull the hand brake on as tight as you can, But not too tight that you can't get it off.
With the engine off select 3rd gear.
Start the engine with out the clutch pedal depressed. ( It goes against the grain but trust me. )
If the car runs fine then the clutch is stuffed.
If the car stalls then the clutch is still serviceable.
The above test is a quick guide only

There could be other reasons for clutch slippage but these are the main two problems. Anything else requires removal and inspection of major components.

Hope this helps W/R

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Slightly off topic - what happens to gas after it's been sitting in the open air for a while? I noticed the color, or whatever it is, settles to the bottom after a while

Gas that's left to open air will evaporate off the highly combustibles and leave what some call "varnish", or the impurities and other denser chemicals, left. If you then add gas to this, the concentration of bad stuff is higher and can make the engine run rough. Or, the varnish can deposit onto parts and cause gumming. This is what makes small engines that have sat and evaporated their gas off run like crap.

A gas tank, even one with a small leak is unlikely to evaporate off enough to cause big problems.

 

[WarmasterCain55]

Or the fact that I've put a pan beneath it and been putting the gas back into the truck sometimes a day or two, sometimes more, before I leave.

Let me describe what happened before it started stalling. My gas light was on and I neglected to fill it up before I turned to home, intending to the next day. Of course I didn't and two days later, put the gas back in and about .3 miles later, that's when it started.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Or the fact that I've put a pan beneath it and been putting the gas back into the truck sometimes a day or two, sometimes more, before I leave.

Let me describe what happened before it started stalling. My gas light was on and I neglected to fill it up before I turned to home, intending to the next day. Of course I didn't and two days later, put the gas back in and about .3 miles later, that's when it started.

Ah, Then it's likely a clogged fuel filter. Cheap fix, as long as you don't break the fuel line changing it.

You may have sucked a large amount of sediment that was sitting on the bottom of the tank and clogged it. The big symptom here is loss of power or stalling when you press hard on the gas pedal.

 

[WarmasterCain55]

Or the fact that I've put a pan beneath it and been putting the gas back into the truck sometimes a day or two, sometimes more, before I leave.

Let me describe what happened before it started stalling.? My gas light was on and I neglected to fill it up before I turned to home, intending to the next day.? Of course I didn't and two days later, put the gas back in and about .3 miles later, that's when it started.

Ah, Then it's likely a clogged fuel filter. Cheap fix, as long as you don't break the fuel line changing it.

You may have sucked a large amount of sediment that was sitting on the bottom of the tank and clogged it. The big symptom here is loss of power or stalling when you press hard on the gas pedal.

Could I really do it by myself? I never worked on my car before.

 

[ThreadWeaver]

Could I really do it by myself? I never worked on my car before.

Ah, that might be a little tougher. If you're not used to working on stuff you could make it worse if you're not careful.

Basically, once you find it on your model (It should be attached to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine compartment), it's just a matter of loosening the screw that mounts it, loosening a couple hose clamps, removing the old one, and putting the new one in its place in the same orientation (after removing the shipping caps.

<a href='http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=56333' target='_blank' rel='nofollow'>http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=56333</a>

The catch is to not lose the hose clamps, not break the hose trying to remove the old one if the hose is brittle, not to dump too much fuel in the engine compartment, make sure the filter is in the same orientation (you can see the fuel flow marker on the example), not strip the head of the screw that mounts it (it's probably rusted), getting access to the damn thing (you may have to jack it up and crawl under). You may or may not encounter any of these things.

A shop will probably charge you about $100 for replacing it. If you bring it in, you might as well have them diagnose it, that way you're not throwing a lot of money at it needlessly.